What makes for a surfing life? With a blaze of groundbreaking performances and a list of titles claimed from all over the world to his name, Australian world champion surfer Nat Young might know. His seventieth birthday inspired some reflection on exactly that, and on the waves and characters that have marked his remarkable life--Miki Dora and Midget Farrelly to name a few. But surfing for Nat Young--and so many like-minded surfers--has never been about winning, never been about the sport. It's a calling, an endless quest, a philosophy, a religion. Most of all, surfing is a way of life that has underpinned his other identities as board shaper, film producer, writer, raconteur, conservationist, activist, pilot, husband, and father. Candid and wryly observed, Church of the Open Sky explores what it means to be a surfer, with a collection of true stories of Nat's surfing life--and the friends, foes, and heroes he's met along the way.

Binding Type: Paperback
Publisher: Michael Joseph Australia
Published: 09/01/2019
ISBN: 9780143796718
Pages: 252
Weight: 1.20lbs
Size: 9.10h x 6.10w x 0.70d